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Phalaenopsis orchid also called as moth orchid, is part of the epiphytic orchids that belong to the genus Phalaenopsis. These plants are common in tropical Asia, where is popular for their colored flowers.
These orchids may come in various colors and sizes. Some are spotted, striped, blotched, and mottled. Others may have dull white color or a mixture of colors.
Quantity: 100pcs
Germination time: 15-20 days
For germination temperature: 20-25 Celsius.
Applications: Balcony, garden, living room, study, windows, office, etc.
Growing Phalaenopsis:
Phalaenopsis are fast becoming recognised as the most beautiful flowers in horticulture. The plants are also one of the fastest growers in the orchid family. Their long arching sprays of long lasting blooms are very popular both on the showbench and for floral arrangements and bridal bouquets. The plants and blooms may be a little more expensive than others because commercial production on a large scale usually entails heating in Winter and fan forced ventilation. Breeders are now producing a wider range of colours. Whites are still the most popular with showbench blooms reaching over 5 inches in diameter.
Mature plants can bloom from mid winter through to December if the spike is cut just above the third then the second live node from the bottom of the flower stem to produce a second and third flowering.
Warning: If the leaves go limp, cut off all blooms and spikes at the base immediately!
Like most orchids they can be grown under a wide variety of situations if a few special conditions are met. It is therefore important (as with all orchids) to ask your nurseryman for relative cultural advice.
Cultural Requirements:
Temperature Range:
Minimum of 15°C at night up to 30oC in daytime, except in Autumn (February, March and April) when they should be allowed to drop to 12oC at night for a few weeks to help initiate flower spikes.
After this, care should be taken to ensure a minimum nighttime temperature of 15°C for the rest of Winter. Although they are warm growers, above 30°C, they tend to stop growing, so if this is likely take steps to reduce the temperature by improving ventilation or misting the floor, etc.
Light:
In nature Phalaenopsis come from very shady locations in rainforest, so about 80% to 90% of shade is ideal (i.e. about 10% to 20% filtered direct sunlight). The extra light (20%) is given at spiking time in Autumn.
N.B.: This is filtered direct sunlight and NOT incident light coming from a side window. When the shadow of your hand is barely discernible, that is 10% sunlight. Generally, if leaves are a very dark green, that denotes too much shade (be sure excessive nitrogen in fertiliser is not the cause). If leaves are yellowish green, that denotes too much sun. Leaves should be firm and mid-green colour.
Watering:
These plants should NEVER dry right out, (unlike many other orchids) but should not be kept too wet either. Best to pot water if you can. If you must water overhead, tilt plants on an angle so that water does not lie in the crown. Water before 10 a.m., but only on fine, sunny days. Then let the leaves dry out for night. Remember cooler air at night deposits water on plants as it can't hold as much moisture as warm air. On a cold Winter morning, if you don't like a bucket of cold water thrown over you, don't do it to your plants: Wait till the water warms up to room temperature. Cold water on a spiking plant will drop buds.
Dehydration:
Can be caused by not enough water, as well as too much water, as too much water rots roots so the plant cannot take it up.
Humidity:
Should be fairly high as the leaves like to be in moist air in the daytime (about 80%). It is not sufficient to water the pot, the moisture should be in the air. At night, humidity should be a lot lower or bacterial rot will result. In dry locations we can increase humidity around the plant by placing it on top of a tray of moist pebbles. (NOTE: The base of the pot must NOT be in water). Most air conditioning dries the air, so plants should not be left too long in this situation.
Ventilation:
Plants should not be left in stagnant air, as bacteria and fungus spores can infect. Soft watery bacterial rot is the usual result of inadequate ventilation. To treat, cut off the affected part of the leaf, treat the cut end with Mancozeb, then let it dry before spraying with a sanitiser such as Benzylkonium Chloride to kill spores around the plant and benches. THEN improve ventilation to remove the cause. While you are treating plants, keep a little on the dry side for a while. If you cannot improve the natural ventilation, fans should be used constantly to reduce temperature on hot days and to dry plants out for cold nights.